I am sure there are things that could cause z banding that I left off the list but this should guide you in the right direction well enough to fix most ender 3 z banding issues./3dpg/ - 3D Printing General Anonymous Sat Nov 4 18:11:43 2017 No.1272345 There are many causes for z banding on an Ender 3 and most can be resolved relatively easily if you know what you are doing and how to diagnose the issue. To correct this issue you can slow down the print speed, add a brim, and add a sacrifice tower for additional strength. Parts that are excessively tall can sometimes teeter on the build plate if they are not supported properly and this teetering can cause a line/banding effect around the 3D print. If you are still receiving banding on your prints and have already gone through the top items on this list for diagnosing you may want to adjust this setting to rule it out as the issue. There is a setting in most slicers to set the minimum time per layer. If your material is not allowed enough time to cool between layers it is possible for the printer to extrude hot material on top of filament that is not completely cooled which can cause the lower level to compress and appear as ringing around the part. This is not a z banding issue as much as it is a material cooling issue. I would not typically diagnose this as z banding because typically it is a very dramatic shift and usually causes the print to fail entirely, but if the belts were to only slightly slip back and forth this could look like ringing or banding on your print outer surfaces. If the x and y-axis belts are not tightened properly it can cause the belt to slip and typically shows as misalignment on the 3D print. I couldnt find anywhere that you can just buy a replacement lead screw, but you can buy a dual z-axis lead screw kit and just use the lead screw from the kit and save the other parts as spares. If your z-axis lead screw is bent you can try to straighten it if you have the right tools, but you will likely have to replace it entirely. The z-axis lead screw being bent is probably the most unfortunate z banding error. Here is a great video by Ronald Walters on youtube outlining the issue as well as how he goes about bending the carriage back into shape. If the 90° bend is off by 1 degree it will cause misalignment for the lead screw and can cause binding. The issue with starting with a flat piece of aluminum and bending it is the difficulty in producing an accurate bend. The z-carriage alignment is typically a manufacturer error on the machine that causes misalignment and pressure on the z-axis lead screw.Īt the manufacturer, the z-carriage starts as a flat piece of aluminum which is then bent into form to accommodate the extruder motor and the brass z guide. To ensure that the nozzle clogging is not the cause for z banding you can replace the nozzle or change the filament you are using to ensure that the filament is not the purpose for the clogging. If the nozzle becomes partially clogged it can cause a thin semi-clogged layer, followed by a thick not clogged layer. Intermittent nozzle clogging is a very real possibility with z banding, especially if the z banding is not consistent throughout the print. The purpose of the brass guide being slightly loosened is so that there is a small amount of play in the guide to prevent binding on the z-axis. You don’t want the bolts to be nearly falling out but they should be backed off about half a turn to a full turn from completely tight. Per the Ender 3 assembly instructions these bolts should not be completely tightened. Just slightly turn the eccentric nut with the Ender 3 wrench and turn the z-axis lead screw by hand to test the tension of the z axis carriage. You can loosen this nut with the tools provided with the Ender 3 kit. The eccentric nut being over-tightened applies excess force from the z-carriage to the extruded aluminum that guides the z-carriage. The z-axis eccentric nut being over-tightened is by far the most common cause for Z banding on a 3D printer. Most Z banding issues are relatively simple and only take a few minutes to fix. The most common causes for z banding on an ender 3 are your z-axis eccentric nut being too tight, z-axis lead screw binding, z-carriage brass guide over-tightening, and z-carriage alignment. Thankfully there are pretty simple solutions for most Ender 3 issues so let’s dive in and see if we can figure out how to fix your Z banding issue. There are many causes for Z banding on an Ender 3 and each of them seems to be equally as frustrating as the others.
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